Last week of Jesus' Life field trip

Upstairs in the auditorium we just had an 'upper room experience'. This wasn't on the schedule originally. It was a really cool experience. On the stage they ( I think Brother and Sister Seely were in charge of it) had set up a 'triclinium'. This is the set up that the Savior and his disciples probably used for the last supper. I took a picture of it which I will upload to show you. A bunch of the guys portrayed the Savior and his disciples while Brother Seely read the scriptures and explained what things must have been like. I thought it was especially interesting when they showed how the Savior must have washed the disciples feet. Brother Seely explained that feasts are a time of joy, thanksgiving, and peace. Behind the set table was beautiful Jerusalem. I'm really going to miss this wonderful place and the wonderful experiences. We've sat in the auditorium together many times on Shabbat and taken the sacrament together. Tonight was the last time we'll sit there all together as now but each week when I take the sacrament I will reflect on the Saviors sacrifice for me and I will forever visualize Jerusalem.
Earlier today we had our second to last field trip "The Last week of Jesus' Life'. We went to Bethany, the home of Lazarus, Mary, and Martha. We went down into Lazarus' tomb. It's a long walk down steep steps, cram packed with tourists (some of them stinky). (It's really humid and hot in the tomb a lot like the pyramids.) There were lots of old ladies from Russia or Eastern Europe who went down there who hard kind of a hard time gettin out. While we were waiting in line, they slowly ascend the steps next to us huffing and puffing. It took a lot for them to go down and see the tomb. With each step they'd use the handrail or the handrail and a BYU student to pull themselves out. Outside there was a really nice palestinian woman selling frankinsence, myrrh, spike hard (the ointment the woman used to anoint jesus' feet), and mustard seeds. The woman's nephew, Issac, was his name was playing outside with a box aunts. The lady told us it was his forth birthday today. There was also an older lady who invited us in to show us her house. She told us about all the other Mormons she know including 'Danny' (Daniel Rona). (She asked us if Danny was with us). Very kind people, good stories.
(I need to finish my journals for Draper's class tonight so speed time)
Next we went to Bethphage, we'd been there before when we did the walk on Palm Sunday. The relic inside the church there is a rock on which the Savior used to mount his donkey for the triumphal entry. I really like the church there, it's small but nice. Next we went to the Pater Noster church. This church has different traditions as to what happened there. It was said that it was there that the Savior gave the revelation found in JS Matt 24 about the second coming. Crusader times they said it was where he gave Matt 4 the Lord's Prayer. Pater Noster means ' Our father'. Around the courtyard of this church is the Lord's Prayer written on tiles in 68 languages (including Cherokee)! Next we walked along the Palm Sunday path to Dominus Flevit. This is where the Savior sat on the Mount of Olives and wept over Jerusalem. (How oft I would gather you as a hen gathereth her chickens...and you would not). There's a church there with a beautiful view of the city. We walked to Orson Hyde Gardens where we ate lunch and then walked to meet the bus. (It was really good to get on the air conditioned bus, it was hot today, and humid. I can't imagine what it must be like to be here summer semester, walking is exhasting). The bus started to drive us to Mount Zion and the upper room but there were Israeli road blocks everywhere (because of passover holiday). Our bus couldn't get near the old city so they had to take us back to the center. In the afternoon I went back out into the city. Today it was Shea, Rich, and I. (It's so crazy to think back to the orientation, the airport, and the first few days of getting here. It was really awkward because none of us knew each other. It's hard to imagine now. Its fun to think back on first thoughts and impressions from only 4 months ago.) Out in the city today we kicked it around Christian Quarter road. This is my favorite part of town, it has the funnest shops. Got some t-shirts, and beads, and little artsy hanky scarves I found. There's so much cool stuff in the old city, hidden treasures, the shops seem to morph everytime you pass and you notice shops you have never noticed before. There are tons of details in the city. Just these past few days I've started to look up while going down the streets. There's a whole different world up there (maybe that's what Aladdin meant). You don't notice the balconies and windows and changing buildings up there. There's so much. I now recognize the shop owners (some by name) and am making connections all the time at finding my way around (now that we're leaving). I got the best hummas in town today (according to all the BYU students) at 'Linas'. I'd never been there before yet. The hummas was way good, perfectly mellow, with pinenuts in it.
Yesterday and the past few days I have been busy taking finals. Yesterday was our New Testament final in the morning. In the afternoon I went to Bagdadi's and got Colette's and Marie's nativities picked out and shipped. (He said they'd take 4 weeks to get there, by sea mail). After dinner a group of the students here had put together a Palestinian neighborhood appreciation night. There are lots of kids who play around the center (they build forts below the wall, climb around in the field playing with sticks and puppies.) who we talk to when we walk to and from the lower gate. A bunch of the students have befriended the kids and their families. Last night all of them were invited to the center for a party to say bye and thank you. It was a really fun night.
Tomorrow is our last field trip. We will be going from Gethsemane to the Garden tomb. When I get home I plan to go through and caption all my pictures so I remember what they are (that will take a while). Fill in the holes of the field trips I haven't explained. And write some reflections as to what I have learned from this whole experience. I feel very blessed to have been able to come here. This blog has been a great tool because it has helped me share my experiences. I'm so grateful for a family that loves and supports me. Its funny, as things happen to me while I'm here I find myself saying. Oh I want to tell my mom that, or Dad would really like to hear that. I have truly been born of goodly parents who have taught me the gospel of Jesus Christ. While studying the scriptures this semester I have been reading the scriptures and thought: Oh, I remember when Dad told me about the Savior doing that, or Mom and Grandma Simmons talking about Mary and Martha, or I remember the song from 'Savior of the World' that quotes that scriptures. There's real power in studying the scriptures, it goes all the way to the roots.
Okay, I've been typing for a good 2 hours, It's 1 am, I'm going to go finish my New Testament journals. Who needs sleep at a time like this? I'm really excited to come home and see you all again soon! love ya!
Emily

Less than a week now!

Okay, here's the story of the nativities. Yesterday I went back to Baghdadi's. (Aimee, Jared and I went out for a quick break from studying for the final.) When I looked at the nativity that we were planning on again, it looked huge (especially when I think about taking it home). Baghdadi showed me a small nativity made by the same maker (I really like the style done by this maker) for $100 dollars with the house. It was small but nice looking. I asked him if he had a medium sized one by the same maker. He did over on the other wall. It was just the right size for $175 without the house and $220 with it. (I think they were all out of medium and small ones when I went last time). I looked at all the pieces carefully. I like all the faces except how the Jesus looked so he gave me some others to choose from. Aimee found another one just sitting on the shelf underneath that had a really good face so I put that one in the manger it looked good (I don't know if he knew I took that one). The salesman got me to add another shepherd (A younger one kneeling down) but the camel he tried to add didn't match. After hand picking everything I really liked the set. (Oh no, I think I want this one for myself.) I asked him if he had any more of this style (same maker) and this size. He said this was the last one but no problem they could ship it to me (that costs 25 or 50 dollars!). He said they were expecting to get 6 more on Saturday, hopefully, from the maker. (I have his card so I'm going to call him saturday and find out if they got more). Anyway on with the story. I don't like the house with the music box in it but he pulled out another house that looked like a grotto but still had a palm tree on it. I put it all together. I like how this one looked although it didn't hold all the figures (some had to be outside), which is different so I like. I asked him how much for it all, he said $250. The whole set with the other house was $220. Aimee told him that didn't make sense because the other house was bigger (more wood) and was only $220 (although I had added a shepherd). He said the grotto house was nicer. We didn't give in and eventually he said okay to $220. Baghdadi boxed it up and we left. So now the question is. Should I go get another one? Do you like the medium size, or still the big and do you like the house? I'm a little worried about weight coming back in my bag. When I walked out of the store carrying the nativity Jared said I looked like I was going to fall over, a little off balance (he ended up carrying it home). I think it weighs maybe more than 10 pounds! Have a look at my picture and let me know what you think. There are also more designs at Omars but I think I like this one (they all have their pros and cons).
I just took my Near Eastern Studies final this morning. It was a hard test, that pretty much covers the history of everthing. I learned a lot studying for it the last two days. Tonight we are having our Seder (passover) dinner. I'm singing one of the songs in Hebrew with a group of girls. It should be a really cool experience. I'm really behind in New Testament now so I'm going to go read. Later!

Nativity shopping (JP and Marie this is for you)

Hey Marie and JP this blog is for you. Today after class I went out to look at Nativities. In order to get to Bagdadi's you have to pass Omars. As we were passing a guy ushered us in. 'Mormon's this is the shop, nativity.' "oh its Omars". Then Matt loudly said "Oh we're gonna go to Bagdadi's first, then we'll come". Ouu, I couldn't believe he said that....ouch..., Omar's not going to like us. Anyway Catherine and I went on to Bagdadi's but we didn't have anything to compare him to so we went back to Omars. He recognized me as one of the ones who went to his competitors shop first. If I asked him questions and prices he'd say "This is grade A top quality, I know you go to other shop, its okay... look at the faces... that is how you can tell the quality, they don't have faces like that." Omar had a really nice big nativity, lots of detail, polished $350.00. "This is the best quality" Then he told his friend to show me a different one. He said it was the same quality. It had almost as much detail but it was significantly smaller. He told me it was the last one he had of that kind. He said he sold 6 of them yesterday, but this was the very last one, for $160. That's a good price but I don't think you guys (M and JP would be satisfied with how big it is) . It wasn't nearly as big as Mom's and I didn't like how the baby jesus looked. I stood there thinking about it. The people I went with weren't really giving me any opinions and Omar was being very pushy. "Okay fine give her a camel" he said to his friend. The camel he added didn't match the set it was too small. I told him it was too small and he jumped back. 'No, no its perfect proportion!' I stood there looking at it (it really was too small) "fine, give her the bigger camel". I don't think the camel he put down was actually bigger. "Or you can have the kneeling camel". That camel looked sort of cool but it was still too small and didn't match the set. There were three wise men but only one shepherd. I asked him about that. Okay, I trade the camel for a shepherd. He pulled out a shepherd with a sheep over its shoulders. It looked cool but it didn't match the set very well. It just wasn't doing it for me, nothing to get excited about. The problem with Omar's shop is he didn't make me feel comfortable enough to ask for what I wanted. I was happy to get out of there. We went back over to Bagdadi's. Bagdadi let me take some pictures of what he had which I am now going to upload for you. (Sorry I don't have any pictures of the one at Omar's for you to compare.) At Bagdadi's I found one right by the door that was a complete set. Everything matched. Nice looking faces (I like the people faces a lot, the sheep and cows are a bit more stylized which I think actually looks cool, and they are nice and big. I really liked how big they were, they fill up your hand (see picture for size). I asked him how much without the stable. He said $300. The picture below is this nativity. I knew before hand that you guys said $250 so I was going to see if I could talk him down. "I only have $250 to spend from my sister." "No, really, $300 last price." I got his card and decided I'd have to come back after I talked to you guys again. (Picture above shows size compared to me. Also in Baghdadi's shop a nice more modern looking one, smooth without faces for $100. He had some more sets around that didn't really excite me more medium sizes I don't think as big as mom's (maybe I'm remembering Mom's bigger than it actually was). I think I heard Davy and Kristy got one from Bagdadi's for $150 that looked pretty good. I don't know (Maybe the more medium ones have been cleaned out by now.) (Also out in the old city, I saw today that have smaller ones lesser quality and pretty small for about $30 once you talk them down.) I don't think you really want one of those, they're small. Anyway, I gotta go eat dinner now. It seems like there's just a certain size where they seem big enough. I think you want it to look like its on a table on purpose. Let me know what your thoughts are. Love ya, Em

St. George's Cathedral

Tonight was an evening to remember. The BYU Jerusalem Center gave a concert at St. George's Cathedral here in town. Brother Galbraith's music was so perfect. It was like I was in Salt Lake Children's Choir again or something. He has such wonderful arrangements and is such a wonderful musician. It was a really exciting because I got to play my violin. I played Meditation by Massenet with Brother Galbraith and accompanied the choir with Sis Galbraith (violin duet) on Ave Verum Corpus by Mozart. I'm so happy I got to play in such a wonderful place in Jerusalem and with such wonderful people! The people we played for really enjoyed it. It was a wonderful evening.

General Conference, Field Trips, Galilee cont.

I really need to finish telling about Galilee. Just for an update of recent news. Today we are on lock down because there is I think a suicide bomber threat in the city. I'm kind of glad we're on lockdown becuase it means I don't have to choose between going out in the city and staying in. Our last finals are coming up. Everything is so crunched I feel like I'm drowning in information (I can't even imagine what spring and summer semesters must be like). I just got done practicing violin. I'm getting ready for the concert we'll be playing in St George's Cathedral on the 13th. Sis Lee just told me that a new service couple is getting here today and the Galbraith's are leaving Jerusalem the day after our concert. I didn't know that. Anyway, when I practiced todayI wanted to practice in front of a mirror. I went into the large women's bathroom on the 8th floor (its nice). The bathroom is right next to the security office. I knew all the security guards could here me but they didn't say anything (I could hear them talking a little bit). I heard one of them yell 'Bravo!' when I finished one of the pieces. After which I laughed, which they heard also and started laughing. When I finally left the bathroom they were all staring at me, Tarek complained of having a headache from the noise. Anyway, yesterday April 8 we took a field trip to Jaffa and Tel Aviv. I really liked the port of Jaffa. Jaffa used to be a really slummy dirty place but about forty years ago they fixed it up. Now, all the best artists live in Jaffa. Potters, painters. Its a really artsy town now. They have live concerts outside in the summer. Great place for tourists. The day before that April 7 (Monday) I went with a group through the Hinnom Valley also known as 'hell'- What is it?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hinnom_Valley. (This wasn't really the hell part of the day becuase after that I went shopping, jk). Pretty much all of BYU went shopping on Monday, getting all their last souveniors. This can be stressful and I think I will try to avoid it in excess for the rest of my time here, otherwise I'll go crazy. Sunday April 6 we took a field trip to Neot Kedumim. What is it? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neot_Kedumim. This was a hands on day. We actually crushed our own Hyssop leaves (also called oregano) added another plant the lady picked and some salt and made our own Zartar to eat with our own pitas we made later. We learned a lot about the plants that grow in this area. (Hyssop, Cedars of Lebanon, barley (passover begins when it's ripe), almond trees, sycomore trees). We learned more about the customs of shepherding and farming (our guide had us try to shepherd goats and sheep. We learned there is a she goat that all the others follow, all you have to do is lead that goat. Real shepherds are good at this because the she goat knows their voice and is very sensitve to the shepherds every gesture. We were strangers so not so much. Our guide took the insights from nature to illuminate the Bible for us (We walked around, and she'd teach us things, reminded me of the movie 'Emma and Grandpa'). We were the first BYU group to do this tour so it was kind of an experiment. Saturday April 5, Sabbath was awesome. It was fast and testimony meeting, the last testimony meeting before us students leave. It was a time to really reflect on what all of the experiences we've been having really mean to us. We didn't have time for all of us to get up (there was a Dan Rona group there as well). When I thought about it, studying the prophets of old has really strengthened my testimony of the restoration! It's so exciting, such good news. We have living prophets today! It's so wonderful to think about all that God has revealed, all that he does now reveal, and all that he will yet reveal. (Jeffrey Holland's talk in the Sunday afternoon session was all about this!) General Conference this weekend was amazing. It was so cool to watch it at 7-9pm and 11 pm- 1 am. I love the part when they welcome those joining by satalite or other transmission around the world, 'that's us!' (During the first session, Sadie was online instant messaging with her brother who is working in Taiwan. It was the middle of the night for him but he was watching it on the internet. Mormon's all over the world!) I love the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, they are so magnificent. Walking into the forum with the choir singing was glorious! It was really cool to sit in a congregation for conference. (I paid more attention then at home on the couch). It was especially cool to see our little Jerusalem branch vote/sustain in the Solemn Assembly. I've never done that before. The first presidency votes, the Priesthood, Relief Society, on down. We only have one young woman, and 2 deacons, teacher, priests in our branch. (They're all Seeley's and Ostler's, haha). Sunday night I stayed up with a few other students for the later session. It was funny to watch everyone falling asleep. I'm so glad I stayed up, so much good council.

Wow, its almost time for dinner. I was hoping to have explained all of Galilee by now but I haven't started yet.Back up on Mount Hippos. Shea tried everything to get his camera. He went and found a big metal pole, it was bent. I don't now he was supposed to make that work. Soon it was time for us to leave if we were going to make it back in time to go to the fish restaurant for dinner. There was a trail heading down that mountain that was marked 'Ein Gev'. The tour group of girls we had seen headed down that way. We didn't have much time so we started running. We had to go as fast as possible but be careful not to twist an ankle. It was really rocky. It was a beautiful view, so invigorating to run. We were running down the west side of the hill. It overlooked the sun getting lower over the sea of Galilee. I kept up with the guys pretty well. We only jumped one more fence into the other side of the grain field we had been in before, they convinced me because we were going to be late. Don't worry mom we picked up my sweatshirt in the bush on the side of the road as we ran by. Covered with dirt and sweat I ran back to my bungalow. I took a shower and made it to the bus in time to go to dinner!

At the fish restaurant I got a real St Peter fish with an eyeball still in it! Picture above shows us eating our ice cream for desert. After dinner we took a trip out to visit Tiberius. They took us to a large grocery store, just like costco where as a member of the class parties comittee I helped Lauren and Rich spend 300 shekels on smores and other junk food for our galilee bonfire! We walked around downtown Tiberius (it's really small) a litte bit and drove back to Ein Gev. The next day March 27 we had class in the morning. In the afternoon of this day we went on a hike. See photo at left. This was a free afternoon but we had the option of going on a hike in the Golan Heights to a waterfall. This hike reminded me of the waterfall hike we went on with the Young Single adults in Bryce Canyon (just the waterfall part) counts in the top 10 most beautiful places I've been. There were so many wonderful wildflowers and blossoms. None of the faculty went we just met up with a guide. Our guide was very knowledgable. As we went he told the front of the group about plants and they would pass it back. (Hey mom: Licorice plant grows wild here, I tasted it).

Okay, I had to take an hour and a half break to go to choir. It's late now so I'm going to quickly tell you about everything and then add pictures later. (Wow, side note, when Marie and JP helped me set up this blog I had no idea it would turn into this!)

Anyway, the hike was really beautiful it led to a waterfall with a pool where we could swim. It was freezing cold but eventually everyone was coaxed into jumping in.

The next morning Friday March 28 we went on our Jezreel Valley Field Trip. First thing we visited was Beth Shean. Beth Shean is really important historically becuase its in a very fertile area. It also guards the way to the coast. We had about an hour to explore the ruins. This picture shows the theatre stage behind me. There were some really cool Roman bath ruins to see. Lots of students took pictures of themselves climbing and posing on the ruins. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beth_Shean

Next we went to Gan Ha-Shelosha. This is a recreational place to swim (like Cherry hill or something). The cool part is the water all comes from natural springs. The water was so beautiful! It didn't feel like normal water (almost silky). There were two little rock caves to swim into. I scraped my legs on a bunch of hidden rocks under the water (adding to my tradition of hurting myself everday). They were so beautiful! The water glowed blue-green inside. The most exciting part of the trip were the little fish that would nibble on you. There was a certain part of the pool where if you stood the fish come, (they seemed to go for the heel bone). A little farther toward the rocks however their was a bigger fish that was actually biting! Rich, Danny, and Brooke showed me their scratches. Ouch! Rich said it was one of the scariest experiences of his life to be in the water with that thing biting him. Before we left a bunch of students and the lifeguard were trying to find the fish.

We changed really fast, ate lunch on the bus and went to the Bet-Alpha synagogue. The mosaic floor from this synagogue (600 AD, Talmudic times) shows Greek and Christian influence. The main picture on the floor is a Zodiac (totally Greek) and the architectural style of the synagogue is Christian. Next we went to a church in Nain. Nain is where Christ raised the only son of a widow from the dead. It was a beautiful little church up in a Palestinian neighborhood. Brother Draper gave a lecture and we sang hymns. Last we went to Mt. Tabor. At Mount Tabor our bus driver dropped us off and we rode in taxis up to the top of the Mt. There were lots of tourists (this is a big Christian site) so we had to wait in line to get in a taxi. I was toward the front of our group, eating an ice cream cone when a driver yelled that their was room for two more in a car. Lyndsey and I were closest so we went for it. It was a six doored taxi. Lyndsey got put in the middle door. I was going to sit next to her I thought. The taxi driver opened the last door where was seated a very large Italian woman. She had to uncomfortably scoot herself over to make room for me. I sat down, shut the door and we were off. Our taxi driver was the quintessential funny old Arab man. Lyndsay started to use her Arabic on him. He enjoyed talking to her. Whatever she said he thought was funny. He laughed really easily (it was almost like he was drunk, I hope not). The road up the mountain has lots of switchbacks. Lyndsay cheerfully enjoyed one of the turns, "woah". The old man thought it was great. To give Lyndsay a good time he took the next turn a little faster. "Woah". "Woah" Lyndsay repeated. Pretty soon the whole car was in on the game. Every turn this car full of Italians would giggle like little kids. 'Mamma mia!' the driver yelled as he went around the next turn (he probably drives lots of Italians up Mt.Tabor). The large lady next to me was just ticked. She tried to hold onto the seat in front of her but she was nearly drunken by her giddy laughter. Every turn it bubbled out of her. It was the kind of unihibited laughter that screams and brings tears. It was amazing. I sat up against the door eating my ice cream cone.

We got up to the top. Tom talked with some of the Italians (he served in Milan). I used the bathroom and checked out the Catholic trinkets in the gift shop. I was wandering around taking pictures while we waited for the rest of our group when I heard a lady behind us say "Hey, its the students from BYU." People in the Old City know we're BYU students but in Galilee? Turns out it was Anne and Truman G. Madsen!http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truman_G._Madsen (Yes, he IS on wikipedia!) They are here in the holy land right now making films. Anne is doing one on Isaiah and Truman is doing one on the teachings of Jesus. They had their film crew, a small party of people with them. All of us were snapping pictures like crazy. Brother Draper was just coming up the mountain. "Richard?, good to see you". They visited for a bit and we told them what time the Tiberius branch met the next day for church. As we headed off, everyone was going off about how Madsen is THE authority on church history right now. I haven't really read any Madsen before. Chris told me I should listen to his propets tapes. (Apparently all the guys listened to them on their missions, nerds).

Anyway, Mt. Tabor is the traditional site of the Transfiguration. There have been many churches on this mountain commemorating in different ages. Currently there is a beautiful Fransiscan Roman Catholic church built in 1924. Inside the church mass was going on so we had to be quiet. On either side of the main area there are two chapels. One is dedicated to Moses and the other to Elijah. Moses and Elijah appeared to Peter, James and John during the transfiguration.

The next day March 29 we went to church in the Tiberius branch. In the morning Cami and I were running to the bus. I felt something go in my sandal. Ow, I thought it was a thorn or something, it was bee. I had stepped on a bee and it stung me! I had no choice but to continue running to the bus, I wasn't going to miss church in Tiberius! That is where I will leave you hanging for tonight. Tomorrow we have to be on the bus at 6:30! Guess where we are going. Masada! Also we're going to Qumran (dead sea scrolls were discovered here) and swimming in the Dead Sea. Thanks for reading, hopefully I don't have too many mitksks and you cna udersyaud.

Ein Kerem/ Lion's Club Violin Competition

Tomorrow is Shabbat. Right now there is a soccer game going on in the gym next to me. It's really loud so its kind of hard to concentrate. Ahh, okay now I'm in a classroom, thats better. I just got back from a visit to a synagogue. Ophir, our Jewish narrative teacher is taking 20-30 of us at a time (in 3 different groups) to visit a synagogue on shabbat evening. I signed up for the 2nd group which went today. It was really interesting to go to. The synagogue we went to Ophir said was Liberal Orthodox Neo-Chassidic (or something, if there's a way to label everything). The congregation was really welcoming to us. The meeting consisted mostly entirely of singing. The tunes were really catchy and very Jewish sounding (imagine that). Ophir later told us the songs were actually written only in the last 50 years, and are really popular in worship services now. Besides singing there was a little bit of talking in the middle. It's not really as organized as the church meetings we're used to. The man who got up to talk in the middle (he spoke in English because there were a lot of English speakers in the congregation) was just a guy from the community who felt he had something to say. No one asked him to. The actual Rabbi didn't do anything except make announcments at the end. We didn't even know he was the Rabbi until Ophir told us after.
Anyway before going to Synagogue today I also went with a group to finish a mural that James (resident art major) has been heading at the Princess Basma School for Disabled Children on Mount Scopus. This hospital is really close to the center. Students have been going up to work on it for the past few Fridays (they go on Friday because its the Muslim Sabbath and no one is there). There are lots of other murals on the walls a few from past BYU groups. Ours is the biggest and grandest of the BYU though (haha). James designed a scene that has a rainbow going over the earth with the moon the sun, planets and stars all around (I'll show a picture). It was great fun to paint. There's something really satisfying about slapping think paint on a wall with a big brush. While we were cleaning up brushs and stuff my roommate Heather's cell phone rang. She was in the bathroom so Natalie answered it for her. (She was expecting a call from her parents because they flew into Tel Aviv earlier today.) "Heather it's your Dad!" "You're here!, on Mt. Scopus!" Heather's parents were planning to go to Egypt first for a few days but their flight got messed up, so they're now staying in Jerusalem. It sounds like they had a rough flight experience. Their bags got lost so for church tomorrow, they're borrowing things. (Heather's Dad is borrowing Russel's pants!) It's really exciting that they're here for a few days, Heather gets to show them around!
Yesterday April 3 was a free day but I didn't go out until the afternoon cause I wasn't feeling all the way up to snuff. (A bunch of people are sick since getting back from Galilee, food poisoning? a bug? rigorous scedule? i donno what). We only have 2 and 1/2 weeks left. Many people went shopping to get all the souveniors they've been putting off buying. It's annoying when you just don't have the energy for all you want to do. I got a little studying done in the morning and then went with a group who met up with another group to go to Ein Kerem. Ein Kerem is an area of town on the West side (kind of near Mt. Herzl). First we went and saw the Marc Chagall stained glass windows inside Hadassah Hospital (the windows are in the hospitals synagogue). Next we went to the St. John the Baptist church. Commemorates where John the Baptist was born. This is a very beautiful church, maybe my favorite in Jerusalem. They told us we could sing. We sang 'Nearer My God to Thee' it was my favorite part of our visit. Next we found the best ice cream I've had so far in Isreal. It was an Italian Ice Cream shop. I never thought Pistacio ice cream would be good. Every flavor that had was good. We didn't get in to the Sister's of Zion convent that is right in that area (it closed at 5 not 6). Brother Huntington had told us this was his second favorite site in Israel. I guess we'll have to try to go back there sometime. To spend the rest of our time we wandered around and found "Mary's Spring". This is a fountain that commeorates the spot where Mary and Elizabeth met and 'the babe lept in Elizabeth's womb.' It was a really pretty fountain. There was a lady sitting next to it playing a really interesting instrument. She said it was called a 'Hang' from Switzerland (It'd be cool to find one). The sound really complimented the fountain water noise (really calming sound).
Also, I forgot to write about before. On April 3rd evening there was a violin competition here at the BYU JC. When we came in the upper gate from Ein Kerem there was a bride and groom taking pictures in the gardens (this is more common now that it's spring), and inside there were a lot of people around and a kid with a violin on his back checking in at the front desk. I went down to my room and sister Galbraith called about something and then told me there was a competition tonight of young violinists (16-17 years old). She said they were really impressive, chosen out of a larger group at an earlier competition. The winner would go on to a competition in Europe. I told her I'd like very much to go. She said to go up to the Oasis and find Bro Galbraith. Every person I passed while going up the stairs told me to find Bro Galbraith. "Oh, Emily, there's a violin thing tonight" "Emily, Bro Galbraith's looking for you"... There were 5 tickets for students. Everyone made sure I got a ticket. When I got upstairs my name was already on the top of the list. haha
The concert was sponsored by the Lion's club I think. The audience was full of middle aged Jews, probably members of the Lion's club. They remind me of the kind of people who attend the Utah Symphony accept even more boisterous people (kind of like 'My Big Fat Greek Wedding'). There were lots of speaches and formalities at the beginning. They said everything in Hebrew and then in English (It took more than 30 minutes). They expressed how they love the Brigham Young University Jerusalem Center. They say it on of 'the most beautiful places in Jersalem.' After the speeches,e ach of the violinists gave a recital. They played 3 or 4 pieces each. They were really good, lots of really intense dramatic showy stuff (the audience really enjoyed it). They played Sarasate (lots of tricks), Brahms, Carmen. About four of the pieces were repeated between the three of them. By the time they finished it had taken more than 2 hours. There was a man sitting behind us on the back row who would get upset and clear his throat if he thought he heard anyone whispering. The last violinist played the Fugue from Bach Sonata No1 in g minor. Right at the end of his piece someone a couple rows in front of us's cell phone went off. Appauled, the audience all turned to look at him. Many of them looked like they were going to pounce! The guy behind us about went crazy. Outraged he stood up and chastized the guy in Hebrew then sat down grumbling and rolling his eyes. The violinist began his next piece. The man with the phone was discusted. He climbed over everyone and furiously left the concert. I thought the concert was over but there was only a break while the judges were making their decision. Whew, I had to go, it was late and I hadn't started studying yet. Debbie wanted to find out who won so she stayed for the rest of it. She said it ended up going until 11:00pm! They had a thing set up so the audience could vote as well. The last guy who played ended up winning. I'm glad I got to go to the concert. It was a fun cultural experience.
I'm excited for Shabbat tomorrow. We are having a fast and testimony meeting only, then later in the evening, General Conference is going to be broadcast live to us from Salt Lake City!

Galilee

Hello everyone! I just got back from 11 days in the Galilee. It was an amazing experience. I wrote a little while I was there so I'll post that and explain the rest in the next few days. I'm so excited to sleep in my bed again tonight (I'm tired!). I love the Jerusalem Center. We have a free day tomorrow and then things are a whirlwind til we go home (field trips almost every other day). Less than three weeks left til we go home! It's coming right up. Thanks for reading my blog, Enjoy!

First of all, on Easter Sunday before we left for Galilee (Ein Gev, was where we stayed) we went to the EARLY (we had be at the lower gate by 5!) morning sunrise service at the garden tomb. Lots of evangelical Christians. It was packed!


Monday March 24, 2008
Ein Gev
Here we are in the country! Galilee has a different feel than life in Jerusalem. I feel like I'm camping at bear lake on vacation or something. It is soooo beautiful up here! It's very humid and (really hot in the afternoons) perfect weather in the mornings and evenings, slight breeze. There are tons of brightly colored flowers growing everywhere, palm trees, green grass and tons of birds and bugs! We had a bonfire on the beach tonight after dinner and I've been studying for a while. It's harder to study here because its dark outside and all we have to study in is our little bungalow. Which has roommates in it and talking is hard not to do. Right now I'm typing out on the picnic table outside. Good thing computers glow.
This morning Brother Draper's class (my class) went on our Sea of Galilee field trip. First thing in the morning we had a boat ride across the sea. It was so beautiful! We stopped in the middle of the lake and Brother Draper gave us a lesson on when Peter walked on the water and then the story of when the Savior calmed the storm on the sea. We sang the hymn 'Master the Tempest is Raging'. I don't have my journal or schedule with me right now so it's hard to remember the names of all the places. After we got off the boat we went into a museum that held a 2 thousand year old boat that sea archaeologists found a few years ago (Nof Ginosar ancient boat). It took a lot of difficult work for them to get it out of the sand without it disintegrating. They ended up using a spray poly-material that expanded around the boat and held it in a block where they could hoist it out, take it inside and put it in chemicals to preserve it. It was really cool to see part of a vessel from the time of Jesus and his disciples. After this we went to the Mt of Beatitudes and church (built actually by Mussolini in 1937). The grounds were so beautiful there, I feel guilty not having a way to describe it, it was like paradise. I'm so lucky to get to come see all of this. The nuns at this church like BYU so even though they were all booked they arranged for us to have one of the lesson areas overlooking the sea. Brother Draper explained all about the meaning of the Greek word Disciple and then taught us about how Jesus taught. It was really interesting. He taught us about Him adding teaching the New law in relation to the Old Law. The new law depended on the people internally while the old law was more of an external policeman, a hedge around the law.
Galilee is a wonderful place. We're so lucky that we get to come here and study this place.
My second favorite part of the day was Peter's Primacy. We went to the church that commemorates when the Savior reappears to the disciples when they are fishing in the sea of Galilee and haven't caught anything. The savior has them cast their nets on the other side of the boat and there are tons of fish. Brother Huntington had lots of insights, I really love this story, he explained how Jesus loves his disciples so much he asks them if they've had anything to eat. He is worried about not just our spiritual well being, he cares if we are hungry, he cares about our whole well being. He talked about John and Peter jumping out of the boat and swimming to shore so they could get to Jesus faster. It really just shows the friendship the disciples had with Jesus. They just always want to be around Him. The last place we visited was Capernaum. Lots of Jesus' ministry took place in Capernaum. There is a church there built and dedicated to Peter 'the rock'. Peter lived in Capernaum, archaeologists can pretty much tell where his house would have been (The church is built over top of this with a view through glass down to the byzantine and later era churches that have held the tradition, there are so many layers!) My favorite part of Capernaum was the synagogue. The ruins today are built over the synagogue of Jesus' time but on the side you can see underneath to the darker stones from the 1st Century. There are a few dark steps exposed. I got to step on the same steps that Jesus would have walked up to enter the synagogue.

March 29, 2008
Today is Shabbat. The time in Galilee is flying by and there are so many details that I want to write about. I'll just start typing and see what I get down. Much has happened this week. I feel like its summer time because I've been doing so much hiking and swimming and being outside all the time. I've just been playing hard, having fun and experiencing. With all the hiking and swimming I have some adventures to tell about. With so much playing outside I feel like a five year old. I can't seem to go a day without scraping or bruising something. It's kind of an ongoing joke that stems from me always getting hurt when we play soccer.
Last time I wrote was Monday. Tuesday March 25th we had New Testament class in the morning with Brother Draper. We ended up having our class outside on the lawn overlooking the sea. It was assumed that it would be too hot to stay out there for the whole 3 hours but it was a wonderfully overcast day. I love the scriptures. I'm so happy and grateful that the lord called prophets to record his ministry so that we can study and learn of Him. I've been keeping a class journal to record my thoughts from class.
Ein Gev was doing some electrical work in the morning and the power was out, thus we had been given sack lunches in the morning. Heather my JC roommate had the extra lunches in her fridge in her bungalow. During our break between lectures she and I went to her room to get lunches out for people who hadn't picked theirs up (and we wanted a PBJ sandwiches to split as a snack). When we got to Heather's bungalow we realized she had picked up key # 158 (to my room) instead of her own key. We didn't really have time to walk all the way back to get the other key. The bedroom window was open so I started to climb in. I climbed in head first. I got my upper body in but I was resting on my legs. The tracks for the window to slide in are pretty sharp and uncomfortable to be balanced on. Ow, owing all the way, eventually I scooted the rest of the way into the room. I tell this story because it explains the bruises that I have all across the tops of my legs from the window ledge. ow.
After lunch Draper's class had our swimming time in the Sea of Galilee. Lakes tend to have a specific color of water. Lake Powell is blue-green, Bear Lake is deep blue, the sea of Galilee is grayish blue. (Quite honestly it kind of reminds me of Willard Bay in water color). Swimming around was fun. The water was not really cold at all. I was playing Frisbee in the water with Lauren and Rich for a while when someone scooped up mud from the bottom and a full fledged mud/ sand throwing war broke out. It pretty much turned into all the girls against Rich. It's so satisfying to get someone really good with a glob of mud that the game went on for a while. Eventually Davy and Chris got in the water. I couldn't resist so I threw some mud at them. Davy dunked me under the water and right when I came up a mud ball from Chris sailed right into my left eye. I washed off my face but my eye kept bugging me. Upon examination from friends apparently their was tons of sand and dirt under my eyelid on the bottom. I went and took out my contacts and washed out my eye. I got all the dirt out but it was really red and beat up feeling. When I went out on the beach to study for class my eye started to ooze Don't worry, my eye is okay now. I wore my glasses for about 24 hours. Russell saw me closing one eye while I was studying on the beach (at first he thought I was sleeping while holding a book) and offered to make me an eye patch. He really did it! It was made out of a piece of cloth from who knows where and floss. After dinner we had a combined Brother Seeley class. The following were the lyrics for our opening song (written by Brother Seeley)haha (I thought they were funny).

“I looked out the window and what did I see
Date Palms blooming on the Sea of Galilee.
Spring has brought me such a nice surprise
Date Palms blooming right before my eyes.
I can take an armload and throw them in the sea
the DREADED DEADLY undertow will bring them back to me.
It wasn't really so but it seemed to me
Date Palms blooming on the Sea of Galilee.”

Brother Seeley's class was very enlightening. It was on Rome. I really enjoy learning about this stuff. We know Rome much better than we think we do. Our institutions, ways of thinking and doing things today are in a big part from Rome. During class Brother Seeley showed us a picture of Hippos, which is a site of ruins built up on a hilltop overlooking the sea of Galilee. He said this is probably what Jesus was talking about when he said a city set on a hill cannot be hid. It's just across from Ein Gev but he said we probably wouldn't have any free time to go see it and we don't go as a class. (I'm telling you this because its important for my story later). After Seeley's class Megan Waltzer, our resident cosmetologist cut my hair. She did a really good job, I love having freshly cut hair.
The next day, Wednesday March 26, was our half-day Galilean Judaism Field Trip . I wore my glasses to let my eye rest more. This ended up being kind of annoying because we went on a hike. (Glasses don't give you very good peripheral vision so when you're hiking you have to look at your feet and you can't look out at the view without moving your head. I'm so grateful for the invention of contact lenses, they're wonderful.) We hiked up to the fortress of Gamla. Gamla in Hebrew means Camel. The hill that the fortress is built on resembles a camel hump. The story of Gamla is a lot like Masada (my family knows what I'm talking about, we watched the movie). The Romans attack the fortress. The Jews there try to fight them off. The fortress has steep cliffs on 3 sides. The Romans attack from the 4th side and have 5,000 Jews cornered against the edge. The people all decided to jump off the cliff rather than face the brutal Romans. The men throw their women and children to their deaths to protect them. The tel is now seen as cursed and has never been inhabited since. It was a beautiful hike. It's so rich and green up here I think especially at this time of year.
After Gamla we went to the Qazrin Village. This is an old Talmudic Village that has been developed to show what things were like back then (kind of like Wheeler Farm). We got to see more of how things were done at the time of Jesus. Brother Huntington showed us replicas of tools that were used. The grinding mills the women used, a threshing sled, a fan for separated the wheat and the chaff, the types of brooms the women used on very rustic floors (brooms were actually used to find things along the uneven stone floors). Seeing these things helps to understand the scriptures that come from this time.
In the afternoon we had free time. I was planning to study. Jared Kelson was all ready to hike to Hippos (the city set on a hill) that brother Seeley had mentioned in class the night before. He decided this would be the only free time we'd have to go see it. I was planning to stay and study with Matt and Chris. But they got convinced to go to Hippos, so I decided to go too. It ended up being Jared, Shea, Matt, Chris, James, and me. (Those are the best odds I've had in a while!) They had to ask Brother Huntington if I could go too, I grabbed my stuff and we were off. The boys made fun of me because I brought a sweatshirt and extra water. In order to pack lighter Shea hid my sweatshirt and water bottle in a bush so we could pick it up on the way down. We had to hurry because it was almost 2 o-clock. Supposedly it takes about an hour and a half each way to get up there. We could see the mountain but none of us knew what road to take to get up there. The guys flagged down some cars none of them spoke English or knew what Hippos was. When we got a ways down the road there was a gate that opened with a rode that led East up towards the mountain. The sign on the gate said in English and Hebrew, no passing, except farm equipment. We were in a hurry so we went that way anyway. We went up the road a bit and it started to curve so we went through a grain field that turned into a date palm field, that turned into an olive tree field and then a barbed wire fence. I was not climbing over that. Chris found a good place to cross and went over only to land in stinging weeds. He came back. Beyond the stinging weeds to the right was a ditch that crossed to the road. Brother Huntington had told us specifically not to go through any ditches because there are still land mines from '67. (We were hiking in the Golan Heights). I wasn't going through the fence, stinging weeds and ditch so I decided we'd better go back through the fields and to the road. I started walking the other way assuming they'd all follow me. Matt and James ended up following me but Chris, Shea, and Jared took the fence way. We got to the road pretty quick and could see the other three guys up ahead. As we walked along the road we passed a bunch of beehive honey farm boxes. They were right next to the road. Matt and I walked on the other side of the road and got past fine. James was further behind us cause he stopped to 'take some pictures' (go to the bathroom). Suddenly we heard him yelling, running, and waving his arms. 'It's following me! Ow, stinging me!' That got Matt and I running too. Instantly I thought of a beginning reading book that I think Marie and I used to read, when we were little. I think we still have it at home, mom) A BEE, A TREE, A TREE, A BEE, THE BEE IS FOLLOWING ME! THE BEE IS FOLLOWING ME, HELP! THE BEE! (or something like that). I didn't know bees actually chased people! It was only a moment and the bee left and we caught up to the other guys.
I should have known they wouldn't have been content to stay on the road. (Actually we had no idea where the road led but we did know which mountain had the ruined city on the top.) We left the road and started up the mountain along way a ridge rock way. (they chose this way because it is much more pleasant to walk along than weeds and has better footing than just the normal hill.) The guys carried all my stuff and helped me along. Behind us the view was amazing! The sea of Galilee was expansive, the sun lowering in the sky, green hills, I felt like singing “Climb every mountain!”. We came across a completely rusted out car which was cool and then we scrambled the last little bit up to the road again. I think we had bypassed a switch back. Cresting on the road was invigorating, conquering the mountain. We ran for a bit. It feels so good to run down here, the elevation is so low, there's lots of oxygen I think (or maybe it just feels good to run). I felt like I was in cross country again. Shea 'the mountain goat' (as I began calling him) and Jared again were not content to stay on the road. Now they wanted to climb up something that more resembled the rocks we climb up at Lake Powell. “No, I'm not climbing that.” I have learned my lesson in Lake Powell a couple times and know the discomfort of getting stuck while trying to climb or worse falling and scraping things. Jared and Shea went up with no problem. Matt started up. It didn't look too bad I guessed and Chris assured he'd help me. (James was still at the bottom taking pictures). Matt was climbing ahead of me and little rocks were falling at me, I couldn't really move to get out of the way, some of them barely missed (that's pretty dangerous). Matt and Chris made it to the top of the first section and encouraged me to come. I began climbing. The rocks were hard to climb. I slipped somehow, thought I had caught myself and then slid a few feet. At first all I wanted was to stop sliding and then all I wanted was to have never attempted to climb that stupid thing. Ahh, I hate hurting myself “Are you okay?” I had only scraped my elbows a little and only my left leg. Down on the road a small truck had stopped and was backing up to where we were. I think he had seen me sliding. How embarrassing. “That is not a good way to go” he said, “you speak English?” and he started to talk to James about excavations or something. I was mad that I had attempted to climb that stupid thing. James asked if we could ride to the top of the hill. The guy said yes if we hurried. We always have to have three of us together so Matt came down and Chris stayed at the top to meet up with Shea and Jared. Matt pretty slid down to meet us, it looked painful. We jumped into the back of his truck and he drove us to the top of the mountain. It wasn't that much farther to the top, we must have looked foolish trying to climb up the hard way (We should have hitched a ride before I scraped my elbows). My elbows stung. On top there was a tour bus with a group of Israeli school girls. There was a path that led out onto the ruin area. On either side of the path there were barbed wire fences and signs that said. “Do not cross, land mines, Danger.”
Oh no, we were hoping their were no land mines, out where the other guys were. Did they know not to go over the barbed wire fences? James had Chris's number in his cell phone so he called him. They were already close to the top so decided it'd be better to keep going. Don't worry, it turns out they have all the areas with land mines clearly marked with signs, but still in the states we don't have to worry about that kind of thing when crossing fences. We all safely reunited at the top and climbed around the ruins. I decided I was not going to be involved in any more remotely dangerous actions. It seems like the Hippos these ruins haven't been developed for tourists as much. There were ropes across places where you could potentially fall and grates over big deep cistern holes. One hole in particular sparked our attention. There was a rock above it shaped like a toilet (maybe that's really what it was). We took a picture of Shea giving me an ancient swirly. Shea sat down on the thing, and had James take his picture. We had a laugh, he stood up, looked around, “Oh no, I dropped my camera.” We didn't believe him at first, I thought he was making a joke. Oh course, dropping your camera in an ancient toilet cistern sounds like something that only happens in a movie. I didn't believe him until I went and looked down there. About 20 or 30 feet down was the camera staring face up back at us. So close yet so far away. Shea went over to the cistern hole near to the toilet and started moving the rocks on the grate so he could climb down. We wouldn't let him of course because Brother Huntington's second rule was “Don't go down into any of the cisterns, you won't be able to get out without a helicopter.” Shea went and asked the people around if they had any rope or anything. All the Israeli girls gathered around and expressed their sympathy 'camera?, Camera?, camera'.

This is as much as I got done while in Galilee. The rest will be continued...

Bethlehem

Today we had our orientation for Galilee. Tomorrow is Shabbat and we leave for Galilee the day after (Easter Sunday). At first we were planning to leave Jerusalem early and not see any of Easter Sunday but our leaders made arrangements for us to leave at 9:00am on Sunday so that we can go to a sunrise ceremony at 5:30 am at the Garden Tomb. This sould be a really cool experience. The garden tomb said they are expecting over 1000 tourists to be coming!

I'm so excited to go to Galilee. At orientation they told us that in the next few days we will do something we'll probably never get to do again in our lives. We will have the opportunity to do nothing but study the life of Jesus Christ for 11 days. We will be staying at Ein Gev in little bungalos that are a few feet from the sea of Galilee! (we can't touch he water except for one designated time because there's no lifeguards on duty til later in the season (after passover)). Anyway I'll tell you the rest of Galilee after it happens.

Now I'll tell you about this past week. Last Sunday, March 16th was Palm Sunday. I've never celebrated palm sunday before but it was really cool. There were a lot of people there. Lots of singing and waving palms. Here's a little video clip (sorry its kind of crazy).

The other big thing about this week is that we had a lot of finals. On Monday we had class in the morning, our Arabic and Hebrew finals after lunch and a paper on the Selah Shabbati movie (its a funny movie you should watch it) due by email to Ophir by four. The next day, Tuesday, we went on our field trip to Bethlehem. Which meant that our final 14-page research paper on the feasts and pillars of Islam was due in the morning. Most people of course had not started on this paper yet, so it was a party! I don't think I've ever written a paper 14 pages long and I didn't think I could do it. Adnan called this project a 'web-search'. He wanted us to find out about Islam by browsing the web and then writing about it and reflect what we thought in our paper. Wikipedia was everyone's best friend. In order to make 14 pages there were a lot of quotes and a lot of personal reflection (ie stream of consciousness sometimes). I can't say it wasn't the highest quality thing I've ever written. Some people stayed up the until 4 or 5 am or the whole night, typing! I printed mine at 12:45 or so and went to bed. The thing that was humorous was that on our study guide for the final, our teacher had the 14-page web search as counting for only 5% of our grade. What, all that work for only 5%!? I did learn a lot about Islam from studying wikipedia and it ended up that Adnan liked our papers.

The following morning bright and early we left for Bethlehem. This was a really eye opening field trip. We had to go through a militarized check point and through a big cement separation wall to get in. The entire city of Bethlehem is walled in and occupied by Israeli soldiers. While on our field trip we got to really see how the Palestinians feel about this. Our first stop was a technical school where we met our MNE 347 teacher (palestinian narrative teacher) Adnan. We went into the basement of the small school and one of Adnan's friends gave us a presentation on the conflict. He talked about "outposts" that are being set up in the West Bank. 'Outposts' or 'colonies' are the palestinian term for Israeli settlements in the West Bank. When Israeli's come, soldiers come with them to protect them. This carves up the land for the palestinians. When they want to travel anywhere they have to go through Israeli check points. A trip that would normally take 30 minutes takes 2 hours with check points. Adnan our teacher has not been able to get to class to teach us a few times (he lives in Bethlehem). He tells us all the time that we should be grateful in American for our freedom of Mobility. We can drive wherever we want!

Our second stop on the trip was Bethlehem University. We are the first BYU group who has been able to visit Bethlehem University (Adnan teaches there). While we were there it was very interesting. We had a tour of the campus and watched a video. Bethlehem University was actually shut down for I think 7 years becuase things got so bad a few years ago. The people keep on going dispite all the opposition. There's an American guy who is an administrator at the school. Every morning he uses his American passport to leave Bethlehem and get the daily mail for the University. After the video they had a panel of 4 Palestinian students who we could ask questions. The students described how everyday they don't know if they are going to make it to class. They have to leave home two hours in advance. There are the regular check points to go through and then there are the roving check points which are suprise. The Israeli soldiers always harass them and treat them like terrorist like they are going to blow themselves up. At first our questions started out with small talk,' 'what's your major etc.' But eventually things started to get a little heated. One of the boys in our group wanted to know how these students felt about the terrorist attack that happened in West Jerusalem a few days ago. He made the mistake of calling it terrorist (what else are we supposed to call it). The student's kind of outspoken teacher began to explain to us that the killing at the Yeshiva in Jerusalem was in response to the more than 100 Palestinian women and children killed in Gaza. She explained that CNN and FOX the media that we get in America focuses on the terror done by Palestinians but does not see what the Israeli's do to them as terror (it's seen as defense). One of the students in particular (a girl who was very sweet) did not seem in the least bit sorry for what had happened at the Yeshiva, she wanted us to pay attention to what had been done to those in Gaza and what they were doing in Hebron her home town. Another question someone asked is if the students had ever talked to other Israeli students or had a dialougue with them (I bet they were thinking Hebrew U and Bethlehem U could talk). The students said they had never seen an Israeli except for a soldier (Israeli's citizens arn't allowed to go where we went). Before we left the University they gave us addresses for websites we could go to for news that wasn't biased and got our email addresses so they could send us their newsletter.

After the University we had lunch at a restaurant called "The Tent". After lunch we went to Manger Square and the Church of the Nativity (ps the picture is of a poster displayed in Manger Square, apparently these four men were assassinated by Israel not long ago). The Church of the Nativity has many different churches of different Christian faiths stuck together. My favorite part was when we went into a section that was just a cave, much like what it must have really been like when the Savior was born. (Animals were kept in caves not barns during that time). After our guide was done explaining thing we pulled out our hymn books and sang "Away in a Manger." The tune is so familiar and brought me immediately back home. Even though I've sung this song many times, I heard it with new ears. I was expecting the song to feel so out of place, in the middle east in a cave in March. But it didn't. Next we sang Silent Night. Without the destraction of it actually being Christmas I really listened to the words of these hymns. I realized how completely simple Christ's birth really was.

After the Church of the Nativity we were free to go shop around Manger Square. This is the Olive Wood Nativity capital of the world! I wonder if this is where you got your nativity, Mom. I found the exact shepherd with the pipe and the removable stick I grew up with. In addition I found all those Christmas tree ornaments that we have. Everyone bought Bethlehem wood flutes and Heather got a drum. On the way out we marched down the street back to our bus whistling and beating like a marching band. Bethlehem is turning into a bit of a ghost town, we livened it up a bit.

At the separation wall an Israeli soldier came on our bus and we showed him our stack of passports. Throught the check point we were off to "The Shepherd's Field." We found a nice field overlooking Bethlehem got our flashlights and split into classes. We had sack lunches and then a devotional. Someone read the account of the angel coming to announce the birth to the shephers. I sang in a musical number with four other girls, "While Shepherds watch their flock by night, all seated on the ground" (we were seated on the rocky ground). Brother Draper taught about the 'rouge Angels' and the heavently hosts. Following the devotional Lauren had asked me to bring my violin to play some hymns on the site. Someone held a flashlight and a hymn book for me and I played a bunch of Christmas hymns in the dark for everyone (don't worry nothing happened to my violin, I was careful). After I played everyone got to go off on their own, then we came back together and sang the rest of the hymns we had not sung yet including "Angels we have Heard on High" and "Joy to the World the Lord will come" (brother Draper had us change the words).

The rest of our week was dedicated to studying and studying. Wednesday was a free day and I stayed in and studied. Thursday was our Israeli-narrative final and today was our Palestinian narrative final. I've learned so much about the Modern history of Isreal-Palestine in the last two days!

Wow, I have been sitting here typing for a good 2 hours and 20 minutes! I haven't even gotten up to get a drink! I feel so good about myself when I get all these experiences on paper, but it's 1:30AM! I plan on taking my computer to Galilee. There's no internet, but I'm going to try to blog often even if I don't put it on the internet til I get back. That way I won't have tons of catching up to do!

PS, send me a comment if you've been reading all this, I wanna know who reads my blog!

thanks, EM

White socks

Quick little entry. Today was Shabbat. Right after church we had an Enrichment activity (its hard for people to get here during the week- one lady in our presidency is from Bethlehem so often she can't be here at all.) We played a game in the Oasis where we got in groups and competed to see who could match up the names of the people in Relief Society with a fact about them. We had cake and ice cream, yum! After enrichment I went out on the lawn in front of the auditorium with Anne and Annie and Heather. The plan was to study but we all fell asleep. There are red, purple, and white poppies springing up all through the grass, amazing!
A bit about yesterday. In the morning we studied the Greeks in NES. We studied the famous sculptures and architecture it took me back to my AP Art History days. My high school art history class was awesome. I actually remember a lot. Following NES we started New Testament! We learned about the background of the gospels and started at the beginning with Zachariah and Elisabeth. It reminded me of 'The Savior of the World' musical that I played the orchestra pit for at BYUI. I thought I didn't know the scriptures very well at all before I came here, which is true. But it's also suprising how much I've picked up just from being around for a while.
Anyway, in the afternoon I was planning to just stay inside and work on the dreaded '14-page paper' for MNE 347 that is due Tuesday, but I felt like I needed a nap. Before I laid down I went out into the hall to fill up my waterbottle and I saw Lyle on his way to Mea Shaream (an orthodox Jewish neighborhood in West Jerusalem). I had wanted to go and thought everyone going there had already left. Lyle told me I could come if I hurried and he would tell them to wait. I grabbed my purse and ran all the way up from the 4th floor to 5th to 6th across the marble floor by the oasis up to the 7th where I said 'hi' to Tarek the security guard, up to the 8th out the door and all the way to the gate. Looked in my purse and I didn't have my proximity card. Everyone going was already in the Sharut. Sarah jumped out and told me to hurry and go put on a black skirt and come back up. I didn't know if I felt like running all the way back down but they were waiting for me. I started to run back, turned around and waved for them to just go but I don't think anyone saw me, so I started running again (they were probably royaly confused). I ran all the way back to the 4th floor and into room 305. Roomates:' Did they leave you'
'No, I have to be in a skirt'
'should I still go?'
'yeah, go'
'okay, ahh, my black skirt doesn't match'
'its okay, you gotta go!'
'ahh, I can't wear this! (I was wearing the green shoes and white socks I already had my long black skirt)
'go!'
I grabbed my purse and started up all the stairs again. Halfway up the 6th floor my cell phone rang. It was Kimberly wondering if I was still coming. 'yeah, I'm on my way up the stairs'. I ran out to the sharut. Wind blowing showing off my lovely white socks over my green shoes. I scanned my proximity card, jumped in the van, and sat down, out of breath and breaking a sweat.
"nice socks"
"I know, it looks bad."
I probably would have been more modest if I had stayed in what I was wearing earlier and I would have been warmer. Oh well, makes for a good story to write on my blog!
Orthodox jews pretty much where all black. Men, women, and children from head to foot are covered. I had some nice bare ankles and I felt funny. When we got to Mea Shaream everything was starting to close in preparation for Shabbat. Pretty much all I wanted to do was find a place that sold women's socks. Half of the group went into a used Hebrew book store (it was a tiny store with way too many books for how big it was). The rest of us unable to fit and knowing they'd be a while split off and continued up the street. Everyone was thinking about what they wanted to see. All I was looking for were socks. We passed a flower store on the corner that was really busy (its tradition for the women to have flowers on the table for the lighting of candles for shabbat meal.) Right next to it I spotted a store devoted completely to socks and leggings and tights, yeah! I found some nice thick black knee highs. The guy spoke English '10 shekels'. I got some navy ones too cause they looked cute. I bought them and came out onto the street. I made Lyndsay come with me back into the store to help me change my socks. It was a tiny store that didn't even have a corner really for me to get out of people's way in. I must have looked really funny balancing on one leg trying to pull up these socks. They're a really thick material and really tight. My thumb is still bruised from soccer so it hurt to use it to pull them up. My shins are also bruised from soccer, ahh! When I finally got the socks on they felt wonderful! I marched out onto the street feeling confident and covered (now I have authentic Mea Shaream socks). The rest of our time I looked for a Torah to get for myself. (After my Hebrew class I'll have a start on reading the bible in Hebrew.) All the stores were closing and most of the book stores only had the full Tanak. I'll have to find one later. While walking through the neighborhood we heard some kids singing in one of the buildings. I think it was a school of some kind, yeshiva? It didn't look like a significant building outside but through the I could see pretty chandelier lamps hanging from the modestly high ceiling in a room pretty red walls. On tippy toes we could see inside. There were little jewish boys (curls and everything) cheerfully sitting at desks with books, chanting things in Hebrew. Their little teacher was walking around. I seriously felt like I was in a movie. I wanted to take a picture but I didn't.
We watched the clock and got home just in time for our optional field trip to the Western Wall. This was the second and last time we would get to go see the Jews bring in Shabbat at the Western Wall. This is a party! All the people gather and dance and sing. There are a lot of students and people our age. The men's side is especially crazy. Army groups in one section singing and dancing. The fur hat, orthodox groups up in their corner. Sometimes there are even guys on shoulders in the crowd. It's an exciting gathering to be a part of.
I was remembering the first time they took us. It was at the end of our first week here and we didn't know what to expect. We weren't quite used to being here yet. Sister Heyes said she liked to look at all of our faces when we first left the security passage way and entered the western wall plaza. This time I understood so much more. I made sure I touched the wall (I didn't bother to squeeze through the crowd last time). We know a couple Jewish songs from our Hebrew class so we could join in singing this time too!

Mass Hysteria.. (did I get your attention)

Okay, time for an update. I haven't finished telling you about Jordan and Eilat yet but other things are happening! I'll press forward now and go back later. We are not locked down in the center anymore. On Tuesday we were allowed outside again! In the words of Talfeek we were advised "just be careful, use your judgement, keep the cell phone with you, charged; make sure you are in lower gate before dark. In general avoid isolated areas in the Old City and crowded places in West Jerusalem, as always, bus stations and bus stops are off limits, just use your judgement, we can't be everywhere at every time." Everyone was really excited to get outside although some made themselves stay in to study for out big Old Testament final which was the next morning. I decided to go out in the city. We went to a pizza place for lunch on Ben Yehuda street (it was good but I burned the roof of my mouth on my cheese pizza (jews don't have pepperoni pizza)), got ice cream and then came back to the center early to study for the exam. It's really funny to be around here the night before a big exam. In the words of Bro. Seeley it turns into 'mass histeria'. Everyone tries to get in the best study group and wants to know, did you look at this part, are we supposed to do this?...etc. Well, I shouldn't say everyone is hesterical some are very chill. Some students study by themselves and some are so chill they don't study at all. Some students don't study until about 11 at night when they break into histeria and stay up all night. Everywhere you walk around the building you can't help absorb more information. "Abraham came from Ur?...Ezekial during the exile, was it Jeroboam or Jeroachin or Jeroakin or Jaaah!.....?" Sometimes maybe absorbing mis-information... "Job, Psalms and Proverbs and Ecclesiastes song of solomon isaiah jeremiah lamentaions ezekial daniel hosea joel amos...." sorry I got carried away. The Old Testament books primary song wafted around for an extra 10 points.
I ended up going to bed at 1:30 and got up in time to be to the test at 7 am. Room checks were administer during the exam. As roomates we ran out of time to clean so we didn't get cookies. Our room was pretty clean anyway though. The test went okay. It had like 80 questions, two short essays, one long essay. We had from 7:30 til 9:30 to take it and we could come a half hour early at 7 if we wanted. I started at 7:15 and went full blast til 9:45! If nothing else exams are the best study sessions known to man. The classroom was utterly silent. I learned a lot while taking the exam.
After the exam a lot of people took off. We organized a later group so we could take a little nap (Iwas tired). When we finally went outside was a gorgeous day! One of the best so far. Spring has definitely sprung. We went to the Armenian quarter of the Old City and then on to mount zion (the south end outside the wall) where we went to Dormition Abbey, the Upper Room, and King David's tomb, none of which I have been to yet. I noticed that the city was much more crowded than before we went to Jordan. Brother Seeley told us today that it's because this Sunday is Palm Sunday. I'm so excited to experience that! I'll have to put up some pictures from yesterday because the city was especially charming! I love the blue sky contrasted with the alabaster limestone buildings and the blossoms and poppies are out, it's lovely...
I want to tell you about an especially interesting thing that happened while we were in the Upper Room. There was a group of Asian tourists gathered when we walked in. They were taking pictures and their guide was talking to them. We weren't paying much attention to them and they began singing a hymn together, it was nice enough. Soon their hymn singing started to get louder. As they sang they raised their hands up and started to pray. We didn't think this was too out of the ordinary. We were over in the corner reading out of our Michael's Jerusalem guide about the history of the upper room (the room looks much like a mosque nowadays, probably what it was last). Until the praying just kept getting louder and louder and more intense. They started garbeling jibberish words, yelling, and wailing. All of them were doing different things, but making as much noise as possible. You'd think they were at the peak when another lady would wail out on top AHHAHAHBHUudfjkdlwiewre! or whatever. It reminded me of the professional mourning woman that are hired to mourn at funerals in tonga (If you've ever seen The Other Side of Heaven) except all of them had worked themselves into a frenzy. Us over in the corner didn't quite no what to do with ourselves (I took a video of it). Just as the Asians started to calm down a group of Nigerians came in. I wanted to hang around to see what they would do. Hoping they would sing or something. Heather was freaked out so she left. The Nigerians came in and immediately started to spread out and individually sing/pray. There was one guy near me who was praying pretty loudly (it was in a different language) and they all started to kneeled down. We had to leave at this point to catch up with the rest of the group. I'm glad I got a video of because it was intense. Chris told me later that the Asian group we saw were probably Evangelical Christians 'speaking in tongues'.
Anyway, today we had class. Our 347 teacher's wife is having a baby so we watched a movie. It was called 'Salah Shabbati'. It's a comedy about Oriental and Ashkenazi jews immigrating to Israel. It's really funny. It was great to hear everybody laughing in class. I know everyone so well that you can pick out people's laughs and you can almost predict what they are going to laugh at. I didn't get to see the end because I had to leave early to go to Hebrew class(I'll have to rent it later). After lunch we had a field trip where we learned about the Separation Wall. Danny Seiderman a lawyer from Jerusalem came and gave us a lecture where he explained why Jerusalem is the way it is today. It was an excellent presentation. When I say excellent I mean excellent. Every word the guy said I wanted to write down. He explained everything with just the right words and analogies and stories. The man was like a good book in human form. I seriously could have listened to him all day.
After the field trip I practiced violin, studied, had dinner, went to choir practice, studied, wrote on my blog, and now I'm going to bed!!!

Jordan

Today we are not allowed to go out of the walls of the center. Even though we're locked down we are still going on a field trip to the Kotel tunnels tonight. This is a tunnel built by the Israeli's that goes under/along the western wall. Apparently to get a tour you have to book like 6 months in advance. We're still going because if they were to cancel it, we wouldn't get to go. We're going into the city in 3 groups. Our tours are late at night 9:30 and 10:00 pm! Security is escorting between the tunnel and dung gate where we will ride vans to and from the center. Eran updated us this morning on the security situation. He said things are still tense. Each side is waiting for the other to retaliate. They're worried about riots and demostrations. They don't know yet if we'll be able to go out tomorrow or when, we'll just have to see. Our Palestinian teacher couldn't get here for class this morning because the border to Bethlehem was completely closed off.
Now I will tell you about our trip to Jordan. We left early March 3 (getting to the border first is the key to not waiting in line) and crossed the border at the King Hussein Bridge (near Jericho). After crossing the border we went to Bethany. Bethany is the site on the Jordan River where Jesus Christ was baptized. Brother Ostler and Brother Draper talked about the scriptural significance of the site. It really is a place of crossing for so many important events, the children of Israel, Elijah and Elisha, he also compared it to the Sesquahana river in America where John the Baptist again appear to Joseph and Oliver. The river Jordan is in the rain shadow so it's very desolate. I don't know if it's always like that or just in the winter. There were lots of hedges but none had leaves. The water is really green (muddy) and it's not very wide, they said not as wide as it used to be (Israel has been piping the water other places). We decided to go see Bethany right when we crossed the border instead of on our way back because it was open (you never know if it will be open). Its a touchy political area. When you look across the river, right there is the Israeli border. On the Jordan side there are guys with guns. I guess they are making sure no one swims across the river. Also near the river is a new Catholic Church that was dedicated in I think 2003.
Next we visited Mount Nebo. Mount Nebo is the place where Moses looked from when he first saw the promised land. Next we drove to Madaba where we had lunch. (One thing you notice when driving around Jordan is the picture of the king Abdullah II is everywhere! Basically after seeing him so much you begin to think he's the coolest guy ever, kind of like Princess Diana.) In Madaba we went to St. George cathedral where we saw the famous Madaba map. Its a map of the holy land done in Mosaic tiles on the floor of a church from the Byzantine era. It's really old! Parts of it have been destroyed from earthquakes (the earth's movement over time). But it's really detailed and looks cool. Next we drove to Wadi Musa the home town of Petra! Wadi Musa is a tourist town like Park City (it has lots of Turkish baths, restaurants, and souvenior shops). After dinner in the hotel we explored down the street a bit and went to bed. Early in the morning Day 2 March 4 we walked down to Petra (it wasn't far from our hotel). We were really smart to go early because it was cooler and not crowded. Petra was amazing I can't really even describe it. It reminded me a lot of southern Utah (lake powell maybe). Red rocks, sandstone, pretty place to hike. I wasn't expecting much at first. Our guide was showing us small Nabetian carvings at the beginning of our tour and we went through the sandstone 'siq' (arabic translated 'the shaft'). He showed us the red dirt and how the nabeteans actually used it for blush (We tried it it really works!). Our guide had us come stand at a certain spot and turn around toward the way we had come and look up. He said we would need a sharp eye to see what he wanted to show us. "Does anyone see the carvings"? We were all looking carefully for something small. Then he said, "oh its over here". We turned around. Up through the crack in the rocks was a magnificent glowing facade! Wow! It was the treasury! (so it is called because the legend was that a pharoah from Egypt came and hid a bunch of treasure there). It didn't even seem real but it was! We walked further down the siq and it opened up into a large space with the treasury temple opposite. Now I know why Petra is one of the 7 wonders of the world. (For your info the 7 wonders of the world according to the New Open World Corporation announced January 1, 2006 are: 1. The Great Wall of China 2. Petra (Jordan) 3. Christ the Redeemer Statue (Brazil) 4. Machu Pichu (Peru) 5. Chichen Itza (Mexico) 6. Colosseum (Italy) 7. Taj Mahal (India). Egypt was not very happy because the Great Pyramid was an honorary candidate #8.)
Anyway, there were lots of Beduion peoples around the ruins. They actually live there in the caves. It's crazy if you were to ask some of them where they were born they'd probably say, 'that cave over there'. When tourists come through they sell cheap necklaces. They say they're made from real camel bone. Furthur into the park is the monastary. It's quite a hike to get to it so there are Bedoin boys around offering to give rides on donkey's. It was a lot like our camel rides in Egypt. Mass chaos as all the donkey boys attacked us and yelled at each other in Arabic. My donkey was really slow. I ended up getting left behind the rest of the group (just my luck). I think my donkey was sick. I felt bad for the 15 year old kid who was so eager to give me a ride. About every 10 seconds he would yell in arabic at the donkey and hit it, then say in a soft freaky voice "Its okay, relax" and "the middle, the middle" (he wanted me to sit in the middle of the saddle which I thought I was doing) followed by another yell at the donkey. The donkey liked to walk right along the edge which was a bit scary (p.s. my donkey's name was Michael Jackson). When I finally got to the top I got off my donkey paid my 5 bucks and walked a few steps to find Emily S pouring water on Cami's foot which was bleeding. Apparently she had fallen off the back of her donkey and hit her heel on something. The other girls had pulled out some paper from their bags to try to bandage it up. About when I got there a bedoin lady came up and tore up some cloth and bandaged it. She did a really good job but Cami probably wished she had hand sanitizer. We walked the rest of the way to 'the Monestary'(cami is tough). When we got there students were singing hymns from inside 'the Monestary'. It was really cool to turn the corner to such a beautiful sight accompanied by glorious echoing sounds (I got it on film). We walked back down from the monestary and had lunch at a buffet restaurant place at the bottom of the hill (there were a lot of tourists eating there, from all over the world!) We then had free time to walk back the way we had come and be back on the bus by 2 pm sharp. A bunch of people wanted to go to "the high place" which was some ancient alter up top somewhere. They had to hike really fast and hard to make it up there and back on the bus (I heard). I didn't realize how far we had hiked back there and I didn't realize there would be so many tourists! We finally made it back to the bus and there were only a few people that were late (they got in trouble later). It was an eventful day. I would say my top two favorite things I have seen so far on my study abroad were the temple of Karnak in Luxor, Egypt and Petra. They both blew my socks off.
In Amman we arrived at our hotel, had dinner and then we had free time to explore the city. Our curfew was 11:30 and we had to sign out at the hotel desk. Bro Huntington had given us a paper with the options of what we could do. Downtown Amman was strictly off limits. There was Mecca Mall, or city mall, or a bunch of museums that were already closed, or (under the table) a really cool supermarket stripmall down the street from our hotel that had some stores, one of which was a really cool place to get pirated DVD's for about $2.50 American or $1.5 JD (Jordanian Dinars). Bro Huntington was reluctant to tell us where it was because he wanted to go get the good movies for himself before we all cleaned them out! Everytime I went to the store(I went three times in the two nights we were there) it was packed with BYU students. They bought complete seasons of TV shows and all the hottest new releases(that arn't released yet). I got two new National Geographic films. One called 'inside Mecca' and another about national geogaphic photographers. The first night in Amman (after stopping at the video store)I went with a group to Mecca Mall. The taxi ride there was the most exciting part. We had to have a guy in each car who would sit in the front, girls in the back. We got to practice our Arabic with the driver and try to communicate where we wanted to go and argue about the price. Mecca Mall was a HUGE mall. It was fun to explore. It was really American except for we were the only blonds around. Some people had no shame in staring. It was really fun to look through the book stores, they had a lot of interesting books. It was so funny, in one of the book stores we found Covey's "7 Habits of Highly Effective People" in Arabic, and "Saints and Soldiers"(can you believe it)!
The next morning Day 3 March 5, we went to Jerash. Jerash is in northern Jordan. Northern Jordan is really green, different than Petra and Wadi Musa. Jerash is a city of Roman ruins that are remarkably well preserved. I took pictures.
Oh wow...it is suddedly 8:57 pm. I need to go so I can study for my Old Testament quiz and get ready for our crazy cool field trip to the Kotel tunnels tonight!